In with the old, out with the new

Old Amsterdam is full of character, according to its website. Why is it called Old? Because it’s mature and traditional, innit. It has a “timeless quality.”

I found it nonchalantly perched on the non-refrigerated shelf in Morrisons, a supermarket with an award-winning reputation, reflected in its numerous prizes at the International Cheese Awards in Nantwich this year.

My trust in the not so new paid off. Old Amsterdam is indeed full of character, similar to a mature Cheddar— creamy, rich and strong. With some leftover white wine loitering in our fridge, the obvious thing to make was a risotto, so I found a suitable mushroomy recipe. I took the liberty of adding some green beans and an abundance of Old Amsterdam. The result was gloopy but delicious. Nothing beats a steaming bowl of comforting risotto at any time of year and especially during cold, dark November.

The makings of a great risotto as well as two plug sockets

Really easy mushroom risotto

Mmm, buttery

Have you ever tried cheese that is just like butter but better? I hadn’t. That is, I hadn’t until the day I tried Chaource AOP (Appellation d’Origine Protégée). After that, everything changed. Namely, I had discovered a magnificent creation: cheese that tastes as creamy and soft and gorgeous as butter. Although I don’t usually eat butter on its own, if I did, I’d want it to taste like Chaource. My only criticism is that its name doesn’t have an “I”—how fun if a cheese’s name contained all five vowels!

Chaource AOP

If you had to choose any cheese to be your bodyguard, it’d be this. At 6 cm tall, it towers above other cheeses, and with its 10 cm diameter it wouldn’t stand for any nonsense. Although one must admit the consistency is so ridiculously squishy that any assassins would have a pretty good chance. Plus, if they had any sense they'd just eat it!

Anyhoo, I had vowed to recreate my wonderful Brooklyn sandwich experience once I returned to England. Although the authentic version used Brie and Garam Masala mustard, neither of those were handy, so I substituted the Brie for Chaource and Garam Masala for English mustard. Albeit eye-watering, it wasn’t too bad. Not a patch on Hungry Ghost’s version but a valiant attempt. Plus, it was a good excuse to melt my new favourite. Mmm, just like butter.

Melted Chaource with ham, English mustard and mango chutney

Adventures in New York and New Mexico

It’s been a while since I posted any cheese. My excuse is taking a week off gallivanting in the States, along with the subsequent recovery from the inevitable wearisome jetlag.

While the U.S. is fantastic is many ways—huge portions, actual sunshine, stunning scenery et cetera—I’m not convinced I’d specifically go there to seek out the best cheese, especially compared with the consistently quality produce of the likes of France and Italy back in Europe.

I visited New York and Santa Fe, New Mexico to see my sister and my good friend, who happen to live in these two vastly different places. The contrast is quite extraordinary, from iconic cityscape to breathtaking arid mountains.

New Mexico

I greedily embraced New Mexican food, which doesn’t seem all that dissimilar from Mexican cuisine: avocado heaven!

Within the dairy realm, I enjoyed an exquisite flan from the respected Rancho De Chimayo Restaurante near famed Catholic pilgrimage center—El Santuario de Chimayo.

Back in arty Santa Fe (there are nearly 300 galleries!), I tried a grilled cheese sandwhich from The French Pastry Shop with Emmental, olives and tomato, which in fact was disappointing. I felt the cheese could have been softer and would have done well with some chutney. 

The enchiladas from Del Charro, a cosy laid-back pub/restaurant (Santa Fe's Central Perk), was a better experience: this cheese was definitely melted. It was also the first enchilada I've tried that included tofu. A healthy enchilada perhaps? Suuure.

While Santa Fe wins on the avocado front, as far as cheese goes, New York conquered my heart. My favourite cheese experience of the trip came courtesy of Brooklyn’s Hungry Ghost in Prospect Heights. Ever tried Brie with ham, mango chutney and garam masala mustard? I hadn’t either. Trust me, the marriage of creamy and curried flavours is sublime. We were hungover as hell and this exotic sandwich, accompanied by crunchy southern veg soup, worked a treat to nourish our tired and hungry souls; the ghosts of the night before were duly banished.

Hangover cure: Brie, ham, mango chutney and garam masala mustard sandwich with southern veg soup

Variety is the cheese of life

Imagine 37 types of the same brand of cheese. And not just any old cheese, mind. Castello—an artisan Danish range that has also found fame in North America, having won multiple awards. 

Happily, you don’t need to merely imagine; you can see and taste for yourself this varied and sophisticated collection at Castello’s pop-up cheese emporium. Following similar poppings up in Copenhagen and New York earlier this year, it has graced London’s trendy Commercial Street for the last month. 

On entering the shop, my pal Lucy and I were greeted immediately by a friendly French assistant who led us directly to the tasting station at the front. We tried an inoffensive Castello Creamy White, on a Table Water Cracker topped with Hot Gooseberry Chutney. Delightful in itself, we washed this down with a small sample of zingy Apple & Ginger juice by Cawston Press. 

The shop floor is spacious with high ceilings, allowing plenty of room to browse and sample the various types of Castello cheese. After our Creamy White experience, we enjoyed soaking Araldica Barbaresco Corsini in Acacia honey, dabbing Castello Tickler—Mature Cheddar—with onion relish; plus, I even tried and approved of the Castello Creamy Blue, smothered in Morello cherry jam. 

This short advert, which aired earlier this year, is a great homage to balance and how delicately the flavours combine in the Creamy Blue. 

Indeed, one of the most marvellous aspects about this Castello pop-up store is that they instruct you in exactly which combinations work with each cheese. For example, you should drink Falstaff Cider with the Creamy White, eat Melba toast and Acacia honey with an Aged Havarti, along with a glug of Barbaresco Wine; while the Marquis sweetly matches Lemon Butter Shortbread and lemon curd, washed down with wheat beer. 

You can also purchase almost everything you need in relation to Castello cheese, from cheese boards, to fondue kits, a myriad of knives, posh chutneys, chocolate, biscuits, bread and juices.

Prices seemed very reasonable. I bought Hot Gooseberry Chutney, Castello White with Green Peppercorns and a packet of five small creamy samples (chives, black pepper, pineapple and blue) all for just over a fiver.

Lucy and cheese goodies

If you fancy sampling some of Castello’s sophisticated creations, the Shoreditch pop-up store is open until Oct. 24. I went on a weeknight, however if you stop by on Thursday, Friday or Saturday, you can try various combinations of cheese, drinks and nibbles. Plus, Castello has enlisted wine connoisseur Matt Day to match your wine, beer or cider to the perfect Castello cheese. Why, how fabulous! 

After trying some of samples we’d purchased, we both agreed the Pineapple Halo was irresistibly sweet and delicious, thanks to its delicate layer of pineapple, papaya and almonds. It’s fortunate that I didn’t buy the regular sized version, as I strongly suspect I would have gorged the whole thing in one sitting. Arteries, be grateful.