Keeping it raw

Strolling through Covent Garden has its benefits—namely Neal’s Yard Dairy.

Although we were engaged in post-Christmas bargain hunting, it seemed wrong not to pop into this long-respected cheese establishment. It was on the way after all.

The shop is compact and the staff are welcoming. We were dutifully offered several samples without any prompting, and eventually selected Kirkham Lancashire for an honorary place in our fridge (and stomachs).

This creamy, unpasteurised cheese is made by the dedicated Kirkhams of Beesley Farm—the last unpasteurised cheesemakers from Lancashire.

Indeed, the Kirkhams are determined to keep their cheese raw. And, by staying a relatively small business, they can do just that, controlling the process from start to finish to achieve the best flavour possible.

In the video below, Graham Kirkham explains that it’s not about being the biggest producer, it’s about the results: “We want the best flavours.” He also reveals that part of their traditional process involves putting butter on the outside of the cheese. The result is an irresistably creamy taste, while the texture is smooth and moderately firm.

The helpful staff member at Neal’s Yard advised that Kirkham Lancashire goes excellently with a slice of Christmas cake. Perhaps it goes well with other types of cake too. Only one way to find out!