Baaaattle of the sheep’s cheese: Manchego vs. Ossau Iraty

Two types of sheep’s cheese—one Spanish, one French. Which would ewe choose?

Manchego is the most popular sheep’s cheese, and with good reason. It originates from the La Mancha region of Spain, south-east of Madrid, where dutiful Manchego sheep produce thick milk, which explains the uniquely rich flavour characteristic of this semi-hard cheese.

Taste the Difference Manchego

I tried Sainsbury’s Spanish Manchego, Taste the Difference; I could certainly taste the difference! Nutty, smooth and seriously moreish— the Ferrero Rocher of cheese—I could have easily eaten the entire block, slice by delicious slice.

I felt compelled to make a strange sort of risotto with this gorgeous Spanish specimen. (Even the recipe I adapted has risotto in inverted commas).

Olive, edamame bean, cabbage and Manchego 'risotto'

Odd as it looks atop garish purple cabbage, the Manchego rose to the occasion, adding a welcome creaminess. And in my view, any dish that involves lashings of butter and wine can never go far wrong. Man, I love Manchego 5/5.

It’s a tough act to follow, and Ossau Iraty is no pushover. Produced in the south-western part of France in Aquitaine, it’s one of only a handful of sheep’s cheeses to boast the Appellation d'origine contrôlée (AOC), the highest possible protection of origin. Plus, it’s a two-time winner of the best cheese in the world title at the World Cheese Awards.

Ossau Iraty 

With such an impressive CV, Ossau has every reason to be revered. It’s slightly firmer and paler than Manchego, yet the flavour is stronger, less nutty, and the texture is smoother. I ate it melted on toast with some fruity chutney, and it was perfectly palatable. That being said, I didn’t feel a desire to scoff the whole wedge, as I had experienced with the Manchego. Ossau alrighty 3/5.

In with the old, out with the new

Old Amsterdam is full of character, according to its website. Why is it called Old? Because it’s mature and traditional, innit. It has a “timeless quality.”

I found it nonchalantly perched on the non-refrigerated shelf in Morrisons, a supermarket with an award-winning reputation, reflected in its numerous prizes at the International Cheese Awards in Nantwich this year.

My trust in the not so new paid off. Old Amsterdam is indeed full of character, similar to a mature Cheddar— creamy, rich and strong. With some leftover white wine loitering in our fridge, the obvious thing to make was a risotto, so I found a suitable mushroomy recipe. I took the liberty of adding some green beans and an abundance of Old Amsterdam. The result was gloopy but delicious. Nothing beats a steaming bowl of comforting risotto at any time of year and especially during cold, dark November.

The makings of a great risotto as well as two plug sockets

Really easy mushroom risotto

Cheddar gorging

Last month, more than 200 cheese judges (one of the best jobs possible, surely) surveyed 4,443 cheeses from 26 countries at the biggest and best cheese awards in the world: The International Cheese Awards Nantwich 2014. 

It only seemed right I sample one of the many winners; unfortunately for me, the Supreme Champion this year was a Stilton. Needing an alternative, I decided to try one of the many other victors: Waitrose’s Extra Mature Cheddar, a cheese that I rarely buy, perhaps because it just seems too obvious.

A sturdy six in the strength rating and a Supreme Champion of the 2011 Devon Country Show no less, I had high expectations this mature cheddar would blow my tastebuds away. I wasn’t disappointed. Still creamy despite its maturity, it has a slightly nutty and granular texture; it’s not the most popular cheese in the world for nothing. 

I tried it on one of my favourite crackers, also from Waitrose—Crunchy & Rustic Fruit & Nut Crackers, along with another 2011 gold taste winner: quince and damson jelly. The contrasting sweet and nutty flavours, as well as the soft versus crunchy textures worked perfectly.

Extra mature cheddar topped with quince and damson jelly.

What else could I make with this esteemed cheese? A quick search on BBC food brought me to a summery risotto. I tweaked this recipe slightly by adding preserved lemon, spring onions (I’d forgotten to buy a regular onion), tarragon and parsley fresh from the garden (not mine, my parents’—cheers ma and pa). Despite it being a vegetarian dish, Stuart heartily approved. And, if I do say so myself, it was pretty darn good.

I’m always happy to validate the work of the Nantwich judges and after my foray into the extra mature cheddar world, I can confirm that this cheese is much more than the sum of its parts.

Asparagus and garden pea risotto with extra mature cheddar and parmesan