Adventures in New York and New Mexico

It’s been a while since I posted any cheese. My excuse is taking a week off gallivanting in the States, along with the subsequent recovery from the inevitable wearisome jetlag.

While the U.S. is fantastic is many ways—huge portions, actual sunshine, stunning scenery et cetera—I’m not convinced I’d specifically go there to seek out the best cheese, especially compared with the consistently quality produce of the likes of France and Italy back in Europe.

I visited New York and Santa Fe, New Mexico to see my sister and my good friend, who happen to live in these two vastly different places. The contrast is quite extraordinary, from iconic cityscape to breathtaking arid mountains.

New Mexico

I greedily embraced New Mexican food, which doesn’t seem all that dissimilar from Mexican cuisine: avocado heaven!

Within the dairy realm, I enjoyed an exquisite flan from the respected Rancho De Chimayo Restaurante near famed Catholic pilgrimage center—El Santuario de Chimayo.

Back in arty Santa Fe (there are nearly 300 galleries!), I tried a grilled cheese sandwhich from The French Pastry Shop with Emmental, olives and tomato, which in fact was disappointing. I felt the cheese could have been softer and would have done well with some chutney. 

The enchiladas from Del Charro, a cosy laid-back pub/restaurant (Santa Fe's Central Perk), was a better experience: this cheese was definitely melted. It was also the first enchilada I've tried that included tofu. A healthy enchilada perhaps? Suuure.

While Santa Fe wins on the avocado front, as far as cheese goes, New York conquered my heart. My favourite cheese experience of the trip came courtesy of Brooklyn’s Hungry Ghost in Prospect Heights. Ever tried Brie with ham, mango chutney and garam masala mustard? I hadn’t either. Trust me, the marriage of creamy and curried flavours is sublime. We were hungover as hell and this exotic sandwich, accompanied by crunchy southern veg soup, worked a treat to nourish our tired and hungry souls; the ghosts of the night before were duly banished.

Hangover cure: Brie, ham, mango chutney and garam masala mustard sandwich with southern veg soup

Getting to the Pont

In another random act of cheese grabbing last week, Waitrose’s Petit Pont L’Eveque A.O.P. seemed ripe for the taking. It was ripe enough for eating too! Rather like brie, with its white edible rind and soft yellow insides, it has a firmer texture with delicate holes sprinkled across it, like angelic airy freckles. Rather fittingly, the cheese was originally known as “cherub,” before acquiring the name of the village in which it was made. 

The taste is somewhat stronger than brie; Waitrose says, diplomatically: “a piquant fruity tang.” Another commonly used term in the cheese world is “funky,” which I would personally attach to this particular cheese. It is quite smelly too—nowt wrong with that of course. 

As a huge avocado advocate, I smushed (the technical term) some into one half of an English muffin, layered some layers of Petit Pont onto the other, and finally topped with some quince jelly and balsamic vinegar. A little strange maybe, but I enjoyed the sweetness of these condiments coupled with the strong flavoured cheese and creamy nourishing avocado. L’Eveque, c’est magnifique!

Holier than thou: Leerdammer vs. Maasdam

I don’t usually give much time to Dutch cheese. It’s nothing personal, I just get sidelined by all the seductive French fromage, not to mention stinky Swiss produce. This time, during my usual mosey down the cheese aisle, something bright yellow caught my eye. Not mustard, nor a canary or a daffodil. Leerdammer.

A lot of vowels, a few holes. Why not! It only seemed right to pick another Dutch number for this battle of the tastebuds. I might add that neither brand burnt a hole in the wallet. It also occurred to me I could eat more than usual to make up for all the extra air in each portion. That’s logic right there.

Leerdammer

Melted Leerdammer with avocado and quince jelly

Unlike last week’s funky cheeses, Leerdaamer is mild-smelling, smooth and has decent holiness. Maybe I imagined it, but I felt slightly blessed after eating it. The soft elastic texture and mild taste reminded me of Baby Bel. After some quick Googling, this isn’t surprising because Baby Bel’s parents—the Bel Group—also produce Leerdammer.

Melted, it was even better. Gooey and creamy, it went down a treat with my crispy tortilla (perhaps a tad too crispy due to our ultra-powerful grill), quince jelly and avocado. Well done! 4/5.

Maasdam

Not as deliciously creamy as Leerdammer, this traditional Dutch cheese is firmer and nuttier. Not that I’m opposed to nutty, far from it. Like Leerdammer, it is superior when melted. Although I must say it didn’t ooze with as much abandon. Not as fond of this one. 2/5

Melted Maasdam with carrot and courgette frittata

Overall, I clearly preferred Leerdammer. The two aren’t so dissimilar; and yet, it’s the small details that make a hole lot of difference.

Got my goat

I’m venturing off the beaten cow track slightly this week as I’ve been indulging in goat dairy produce, which is quite frankly magnificent. Possibly my favourite textured cheese, and one that I regularly purchase due to its buttery simplicity, is St. Helen’s Farm goats’ cheese from Sainsbury’s. It’s just so imperturbably smooth. I would even go so far as to say it's the James Bond of cheese.

Incidentally, St. Helen’s Farm makes formidable goats butter too. In fact, I am so enamoured by it, I now refuse to eat regular butter (this isn’t strictly true, but if I had a choice, it would be goats butter every time!). So back to the cheese: I often fling this goaty number into my dinners, which all too often end up being an omelette or a sweet potato and sometimes both.

This is super easy, which is why I make it so often. Just four eggs, a red pepper, half an onion, some oil and a generous topping of goats cheese, et voilà!

 This is even easier, just microwave the sweet potato, chop a red pepper and an avocado. Douse in olive oil and balsamic vinegar, grated goats cheese. Lovely.

In the mood to experiment, I decided to veer further into goat territory by trying Kidderton Ash Goats’ Cheese, also by Sainsbury’s. On unpeeling the wrapper, it was slightly disconcerting to see a fine black smudgy outline around the edges, like a kohl-eyelinered 60s siren, or Bond girl, if we're keeping to that theme. 

I tried Kidderton Ash with some Piri Piri Sweet Chilli Flat Bread (so sweet and moreish, that I ate the rest of the packet without any cheese) and a dollop of Waitrose’s sweet and spicy peach chutney. The flavour of the cheese isn’t unlike brie, although it’s more distinctive; its overall texture is creamy, while the charcoaled coating lends a subtle, smoked taste.

Goats, I salute you! If one thing is for certain, it’s that I’ll be trying more of your cheese and continuing to scoff your delicious butter.